Not All Peels are Created Equal
When we talk of chemical peels to new patients, the look of fear is usually written all over their faces. Instantly, you can see their minds reeling to that iconic episode of SATC where Samantha gets a peel that seems like her face confronted a cheese grater (and the grater won!). But not all peels are the same; the most important part of getting your first peel is having a knowledgeable provider who knows the different actions and indications to create a treatment plan for your skin and active conditions! If you have never peeled or it has been some time, we will always start with a light peel to test the skin a bit.
Let’s discuss some of the active ingredients associated to acronyms you may hear thrown around when peels become part of the skin care regimen:
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) help to simulate the skin's ability to produce collagen and elastin which strengthen and firm skin by increasing turnover of cells (chemical exfoliation). This can be achieved with different types of AHA acids all of which are water soluble (Glycolic, Malic, Tartaric, Mandelic, Citric, Lactic) that penetrate the skin slowly to help increase skin's ability to retain moisture, brighten, and help treat skin conditions like hyperpigmentation.
Beta hydroxy acids (BHA) typically used in skincare are salicylic acid and willow bark extract which you may be familiar with if you had or have acne. BHA gets into oil-filled follicles to normalize skin cell turnover and to decrease surface impaction without a ton of post treatment flaking or exfoliation. BHAs also are oil soluble, anti-bacterial, and anti-inflammatory making them an excellent choice for a variety of skin concerns.
Poly hydroxy acids (PHA) are underutilized and often forgotten, but have recently received some more press. The function is quite similar to AHAs but they are much gentler in nature, working only on the surface, allowing for less irritation with the exfoliation, and are a great option for very sensitive skin types or fragile skin. These acids include gluconolactone, galactose, and lactobionic.
Trichloroacetic acids (TCA) have different percentages of concentration and blanch (whiten) the skin to make an impact on textural concerns, pigmentation, and scarring offering a traditional and steadfast result.
Retinoids (Vitamin A) do so many fun geeky things on the cellular DNA level, but they are applied to the skin and absorbed superficially to work over a few days to weeks to increase cell turnover and increase post-treatment exfoliation resulting in improved pigmentation, reduction of melasma and fine lines,
Proteolytic enzymes sound like a science experiment but are fruit based enzymes (papaya and pumpkin primarily) that can be more gentle and act to eat the dead skin cells, revealing more radiant skin with zero downtime!
AHA, BHA, TCAs… oh my! So many things! And yes, there are so many considerations and possibilities when it comes to layering treatments. Having the background and knowledge to appropriately apply these chemicals is key so you don't end up like Samantha!
If you have had a peel with me, one of my first questions is “How much downtime do we have?” When I say that, I want to know if you have an upcoming social event or travel- if not and you have some time to dedicate to a little more intense peel, that can change the types of acids used. Keep in mind that enzymes offer immediate glow and no downtime, while most peels will generally peel Days 3-5, retinols Days 7-10 and then again with a light flake around Day 21. All treatments require no washing/sweating/wetness of any kind for 6 hours post and include your post care for a few days if needed.
Peels can be a standalone service as part of any skincare service, or can be an add-on to another service like your routine neurotoxin treatment! I love them so much that I include them in the Aiyana Seasonal Maintenance and Aiyana Yearly Refresh Packages. If you don’t want to peel or flake- a more gentle proteolytic like the Enzymatic treatment is perfect to gently break down the debris on the top layer of the skin. A peel with more punch would be a PCA Peel with hydroquinone and resorcinol, which also contains lactic and salicylic acids to provide a deeper exfoliation and improve tone and complexion. One of my newer faves is the No Peel Peel that has lower amounts of active ingredients (AHA/BHA/PHA), but really helps to reduce inflammation and redness (and really doesn’t peel peel :-)
I have been a huge fan of PCA Skincare for years and use their peels to help get the best version of your skin. PCA has been around for more than 2 decades, and their medical grade skin care and peels have been unparalleled in my opinion. Aiyana Atelier is proud to be one of a handful of Onyx accounts in the country, and Brandon and I are PCA Pro-Certified, attending regular training to keep up on the latest and greatest products to keep you endlessly beautiful.
Feel free to email info@aiyanaatelier.com with any questions you may have about peels or booking an appointment.
