Melasma?! I Barely Know Her!
Skin health is your wealth. No, I won’t put that on a t-shirt but really- I love love love skin. Everyone should since it’s the largest and most protective organ we have as human beings. Because things can happen to it by way of damage that we cause to it, illnesses or medical conditions, and the strive for the forever glow, you find yourself drawn to making an appointment with me.
One condition that I see quite frequently overlooked or misdiagnosed is melasma. Nearly six million women are affected annually (and even men too)! While the precise cause is unknown, it is assumed that melasma is the result of an increase in, and distribution of, melanosomes (lil’ pigment packets) in skin cells. It presents as patches or spots (primarily on your face) that are darker than your natural skin tone. These spots can be brown or tan, often irregular with some areas of solid pigment, and usually make their presence known on the cheeks, forehead, upper lip, and chin (affectionately known as the summer ‘stache). Melasma generally will appear in the summer months and subside in the winter. Why is this?
Melasma has many triggers, but the most common ones are heat and hormones.
Yes, we do love those tiny little humans, but sometimes while they are floating around making you uncomfortable, they are also triggering massive fluctuations in hormones, creating a ‘mask of pregnancy’, Often times, within a year, this resolves to nearly invisible as hormones return to a steady state and the body heals from growing a whole human. But, once you’ve had melasma, triggers can always cause a flare- so keep reading.
So if pregnancy causes massive hormone shifts, our other major culprit unsurprisingly is birth control. Usage of any hormone altering birth control can also bring on or exacerbate melasma. Especially if you are switching birth controls or trialing different brands/types. I’ve seen some who suddenly have melasma after removal of an IUD, and others that have full resolution of melasma after stopping oral contraceptives. It’s all very individual and, unfortunately, very unpredictable. Generally speaking, women who have medium to dark skin tones are more likely to have melasma than lighter skinned, and it has a heavy genetic component. Very generally, with birth control induced melasma, once resolution of melasma occurs, flares tend to be less frequent than our pregnancy-induced friends. Additionally, thyroid dysfunction hormone replacement therapy, and menopause can add insult to injury when it comes to melasma. Knowing the root cause can help to target treatment.
As we approach another fun-filled summer full of outdoor activities in the swamp lands of the DMV, many of you have worked hard during the fall and winter with me to stabilize your melasma and get you glowing through consistent peels, medical facials, and microneedling, and now you are ready with your confidence and summer must-haves.
But, many of you are dreading the return of the melasma because you are still trying to get it figured out in the aisles of stores and influencer inspired must have items. You are likely still splotchy from last summer and feeling the misery knowing that heat is your trigger. I’ve found over the years that heat triggers are actually very sneaky but they are impressively easier to control.
Heat triggers are not just direct heat like sitting in the sun soaking up Vitamin D in a swimsuit on South Beach, but oftentimes, it’s the sun we blame. However, what about that hat you wear while bouncing at MVMNT Society, or gripping the reformer at Sculp’d! Did you just run to the mirror to see if you had a hat mark? Not sure? It’s a brown patch along the entire edge of the hairline where your hat sits. Rarely do I see other areas flare when this is the case. Do you have speckling everywhere on your face that is constant and doesn’t really seem to be season related? Perhaps you get super sweaty at MADabolic and don’t wash your face right after to cool down? Ta da, there you go ;) Heat can also trap under your sunglasses creating a panda appearing melasma, from blue light reflection (yes, that screen you are reading this on), and also with the use of a chemical sunscreens. So if you are a melasma sufferer, controlling it during the summer months, and year-round may be as easy as changing or adding a few products in your arsenal.
For my melasma sufferers, you need a lot more antioxidants than the average person. Why? Well, antioxidants provide your extra armor against the world — blue light, environmental hazards, air pollution, and sun damage. I love the Aiyana Atelier Daily Tinted Moisturizer because on top of being a fairly universal tint, it is light to the feel, smells like watermelon, provides a hydrating physical SPF of 36-44, aides in blocking blue light, and also is packed with antioxidants and peptides. Another summer fave is the very hydrating Vita C Peptide Spray for an easy cool spritz packed with antioxidant protection. It’s perfect for on the go runs, to hang out next to the mousepad while you are stuck inside working with all that blue light, and also to throw in the cooler for an afternoon outdoors. As far as nighttime controls go, if you are suffering from melasma, the PCA Intensive Brightening Retinol is my go-to for correcting and brightening the skin while I catch some zzz’s. I’m very excited announce the improved formulation of PCA Pigment Gel Pro which contains chemical free pigment inhibitors lactic acid, niacinamide, and tranexamic acid to help block pigment formation! Used regularly it helps to tone down current hyperpigmentation but also prevents new spots from forming. Amazing results have been seen in as little as one month!
So loosen your hats, protect your skin, and please enjoy a safe summer!
